Okay Oppo, School me on the AMC Eagle

"Denver Is Stuck In The 90s" (denver80222)
11/04/2014 at 21:02 • Filed to: None

I know my mopar pretty well, but not much about this particular model. The seller emailed back and I have an appointment to go see it. What do I need to look for?

DISCUSSION (35)

jkm7680 > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 21:05

Rust.

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > jkm7680
11/04/2014 at 21:06

Any AMC specific concerns?

itschrome > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 21:06

I'd start by making sure it has 4 wheels. Bought a car once got home and sure enough fucker only had 2 and it was pedal powered. Worst car ever. Never by a huffy..

jkm7680 > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 21:07

Probably keep an eye on the frame. There'll probably be some. But if it seems like too much for you to handle, then it probably is.

The Tunnel > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 21:09

Why the eagle when you can learn about this Hornet.

ly2v8-Brian > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 21:11

Listen to it run with the hood up.

Jordan and the Slowrunner, Boomer Intensifies > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 21:12

Look for massive leaks. Make sure it runs and engages in all gears. Make sure the 4WD is working properly. It shouldn't make a lot of clunking and rattling while driving. BUT, do remember that it is an old car and will make a few squeaks here and there. It might be a little temperamental in the cold due to being carbureted.

Hahayoustupidludditeshutupandgohandcrankyourmodeltalready > The Tunnel
11/04/2014 at 21:14

Why not this Hornet?

Kinja'd!!!

Or this hornet:

Kinja'd!!!

Or this Hornet:

Kinja'd!!!

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > Jordan and the Slowrunner, Boomer Intensifies
11/04/2014 at 21:15

Ya, Im gonna look for old oil on the block, rust, crud in the fuel filter, weird welds and crumpling on the front aprons. It looks pretty clean, but secrets hide beneath the surface

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > The Tunnel
11/04/2014 at 21:17

My mom had one Identical to that in 74, but hers had levis interior. She hated it because she had mechanical problems due to 70s smog restrictions. She wont believe me when I tell her it wasnt the car

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > jkm7680
11/04/2014 at 21:18

I was gonna do that anyway

jkm7680 > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 21:19

Yiz, is good.

ACESandEIGHTS > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 21:36

So yeah, I figure the rust thing should be Ok providing it's a Colorado car, where salt doesn't exist.

I would be concerned about the smog. Does a car this age still get the stick test; is it exempted? If it still gets the stick, and thats's a concern, roll it into the local garage and pay $20 or whatever to see that it passes. (Don't know if old cars still get to bypass the dyno)

And the 4 wheel drive thing is actually a slider on the dash, right? That's a big thing, make sure it works.

Lastly, have you considered a Jeepster Commando or a DJ?

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > ACESandEIGHTS
11/04/2014 at 21:44

cars 32 years old or older dont have to do the dyno, but they still get the stick. I should definetly take it in to a private garage.

twochevrons > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 21:53

I don't know anything at all about AMCs (although I have always liked the Eagle), but I wouldn't be too worried about oil leaks. You'll be almost guaranteed to find a few on a car of that age.

I've never dealt with an American car of that era, but in my experience, a few oil leaks here and there are to be expected on an old car. I wouldn't worry at all about oily traces on the block, and unless it's actually leaving puddles of fluid, the odd drip on the ground isn't cause for alarm either.

Birddog > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 21:56

If it checks out structurally there are 3 upgrades that are cheap as dirt and make a noticable bump in performance.

1. Swap on a Motorcraft 2100/2150 carb and throw thevfactory BBD carb into a deep hole or melt it down into a nice key chain.

2. Swap on a Ford style large distributor cap and a good aftermarket coil.

3. Add a high flow Cat Con or if you're exempt ditch it all together.

If you want a Low Range, an NP229 is an easy swap.

The front differential is mounted directly to the engine block, there are a few guys that make adapters to stuff an AMC 360 in there and keep 4wd.

They're surprisingly good off roaders with decent tires.

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > Birddog
11/04/2014 at 21:58

How much would that cost? I'd probably do the Carb (I know how temperamental they can be, and you really want a good one) and The distributor. I know the distributer would probably be 20 bucks (ish) but what about the carb?

Birddog > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 22:11

A ready to run carb upgrade kit is about $300 on Ebay.

If you're willing to rebuild one yourself you may be able to find a carb off of a Wagoneer and do the swap for a bunch cheaper (close to half). There are a few good step by step swap write ups on the Jeep forums.

Tohru > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 22:15

The weakpoints for any Kenosha Motors cars (AMC's) are the rockers, rear wheel arches, front floor pans, the tops of the front fenders, and (in the wagons only) the back corners below the taillights.

Make sure the 4 wheel drive system works. They went from permanent 4 wheel drive to "Select Drive" in 1982, and added "Shift on the Fly" in 1984/85 (optional '84, standard '85). Make sure it all works.

If it's a 1981 to 1984, make sure it has the 6 cylinder. If it's the 4-cylinder, it's either a GM 2.5L Iron Duke, or a AMC 150ci. If it's got the 4-banger count on a motor swap in your future.

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > Tohru
11/04/2014 at 22:17

If its an Iron duke, Im walking. I wont touch an Iron duke

ADabOfOppo; Gone Plaid (Instructables Can Be Confusable) > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 22:28

You need to look for me getting jealous.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 22:33

Allpar has an absolute wealth of info.

What engine is in the one you're looking at? If it's the I-6, I believe it is the same engine that is in our YJ Wrangler, which means that there are approximately 28,486,572 stroker kits available if you want to bump power output.

Tohru > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 22:38

If it's this one you linked before, you're fine. I can tell by looking at it that it's the 6 cyl. Plus as far as I know the "Automatic 4W.D." side badges are 1980-specific.

The 1980 Eagle only had one drivetrain option: the AMC 258ci (4.2L) inline 6, coupled to an AMC derivative of a Chrysler A998 3-speed automatic, coupled to a New Process 119 transfer case with viscous fluid coupling, sending power to a Dana 30 up front and a Dana 35 (AMC 15) out back. It is one of 25,807 Eagle wagons made in the 1980 model year.

So, check the spots I mentioned for rust, make sure the 4WD works. Plan to do a full fluid change (engine, trans, transfer case, axles, brake fluid) once you get it. I'm willing to wager the brake fluid's never been changed and it's blacker than my ex's heart.

Check out the front end of it for accident damage. The headlights are all fuckin' crosseyed for no good reason. The left-rear looks wavy, too.

If you have O'Reilly Auto Parts, go there. You want to buy a ProGauge II or similar, ask for a Magnetic Coating Thickness Gauge. They're about $60, but it lets you test how thick the paint and Bondo (if any) the sheet metal has. You set the magnet on the metal, and then gently pull the body of the gauge away. The gauge has a spring in it. The further you can pull the body away, the thinner the paint and Bondo is. Use the roof to get a baseline measurement, then go at the wheel arches and rockers. They should gauge the same as the roof, within a few mils of thickness. If there's a dramatic difference, Bondo alert!

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent
11/04/2014 at 22:38

It has a 258 I6

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > Tohru
11/04/2014 at 22:41

Couldnt I just use a refrigerator magnet and feel for a difference in pull?

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > Tohru
11/04/2014 at 22:44

Also, How hard is it to do a full fluid change at home?

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 22:46

Yeah that's the same one, the trusty I-6 that AMC/Jeep used for decades, and the foundation that the legendary Jeep 4.0 was based upon. As others have said, your main issues are going to be a finicky carb, and maybe some oil leaks, but the internals of the engine are rock solid and it will likely outlive even cockroaches.

Did you check the Allpar link?

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent
11/04/2014 at 22:49

I did. Im gonna have to hold off on the Carb replacement, I have to find an entry level job that wont require me to work with food (severe allergies) and is complimentary to my school schedule first. I have enough cash for the car, fluids, registration and fees. But thats ok, I go to school downtown. Ill be taking public transportation mostly anyway, It wont get driven in situations where I need it to start immediately every time nay time soon.

Tohru > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 22:50

You can, that's what a lot of people do. It's imprecise, but gets the message across. A coating thickness gauge is more precise.

It's the difference between measuring your tire tread with a penny, or with a tread depth gauge.

Kinja'd!!!

Tohru > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 23:05

Full fluid change, by component:

Oil: Easy. If you can't change your own oil, don't buy an Eagle. Buy a Civic.

Transmission: Easy, but can be messy. Get a big drain pan, cardboard, and Oil Dry. Make sure to get a new filter and gasket. If you use RTV as a transmission pan gasket I will find you and I will kill you.

Transfer case: Medium. You'll probably want the car on 4 jack stands, and it needs to be close to level. The drain and fill plugs might be tricky to remove. It's rare, but if anything sandy comes out it means the VFC inside the case has failed. There's no dipstick so you check the fluid level at the fill hole - when fluid comes out the top hole, it's full.

Axles: Medium. Again, make sure vehicle is close to level. They have a drain plug, but that doesn't get all the fluid out. Once it stops draining at the plug, take the diff cover off. This lets you inspect the gears for wear or damage. Fill plug will be on the top of the pinion side. Same story as the transfer case - fluid comes out the top hole, it's full.

Brakes: Hard. If you don't have or rent a vacuum brake bleeding tool, you'll need two people. To change brake fluid involves bleeding the brakes at each wheel until clean fluid comes out. When you have clean fluid at all 4 wheels, the fluid's been replaced. To bleed the fluid involves opening the bleeder screws, which if it's never been done before will NOT want to open. Use PB Blaster/K&W Knock'r Loose and a MAP-Pro torch to encourage it to cooperate. ALWAYS use a 6-point closed-end wrench on bleeder screws, with NO cheater bars. If you use a 12-point wrench or the open end of the wrench, you WILL round the bleeder and you WILL hate yourself, because now you gotta go in there with a Vice-Grips and fuck up more shit.

Doing all the fluids in a driveway will be anywhere from 2 hours to a day, depending on if the car cooperates.

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > Tohru
11/04/2014 at 23:20

The car is raised (because AMC 4x4) I dont think Ill need jack stands, it may be tight though. I can manage. I just watched an eric the car guy how to on brake fluid bleeding. He does it with plastic tubing and a plastic bottle. I have tons of used nebulizer tubing, that could work, I dont think I need any fancy equipment for that. While its probably better, I dont think its necessary. Oil and tranny fluid is pretty straight forward, I got that part

Tohru > Denver Is Stuck In The 90s
11/04/2014 at 23:47

I know it's a lifted car - I live in Wisconsin, these things were all over the place because they were made down near Milwaukee. You'll still want jack stands for the extra room.

O'Reilly's (at least the one near my house) will loan a vacuum bleeder for a $30 deposit. When you return it, you get all $30 back. So you get to use the right tool for free.

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > Tohru
11/04/2014 at 23:51

Not bad, the bleeder would make things easier

NotUnlessRoundIsFunny > Tohru
11/05/2014 at 01:55

I'm not even in the market for an Eagle, but your posts are awesome and make me feel all do-it-yourself-y inside.

Tohru > NotUnlessRoundIsFunny
11/05/2014 at 03:53

Happy to be of service.

What are you in the market for? I've got an '88 Ram 50...